Cork edging on base.
Monday, 9 November 2009
Tuesday, 3 November 2009
Monday, 2 November 2009
Monday, 26 October 2009
Week 9 - Tools, Equipment & Model Materials
House Components
The smaller components where created out of 1mm perspex. This is alot easier to work with, particularly cutting. Each component was created out of perspex, but in hindsight, it may have been better to use white styrene for the top and bottom. I can still clad the top and bottom with styrene, but it means more thickness.
The split pitch roof proved quite difficult to cut from the 2mm perspex. The first and second attempt left poorly defined angles. It was suggested that instead of trying to scribe and snap the angles, to use the belt sander to sand away the excess, leaving a far cleaner and more accurate cut.
The angles are lightly scribed onto the perspex. Running over the lines with a pencil before cutting will make them more visible, particularly if a sacrifisal piece of foamex is placed beneath whilst sanding.
The smaller components where created out of 1mm perspex. This is alot easier to work with, particularly cutting. Each component was created out of perspex, but in hindsight, it may have been better to use white styrene for the top and bottom. I can still clad the top and bottom with styrene, but it means more thickness.
The split pitch roof proved quite difficult to cut from the 2mm perspex. The first and second attempt left poorly defined angles. It was suggested that instead of trying to scribe and snap the angles, to use the belt sander to sand away the excess, leaving a far cleaner and more accurate cut.
The angles are lightly scribed onto the perspex. Running over the lines with a pencil before cutting will make them more visible, particularly if a sacrifisal piece of foamex is placed beneath whilst sanding.
Monday, 19 October 2009
Week 8 - Tools , Equipment & Model Materials
Perspex and Styrene House
Today I started construction of the house. Having already completed the sketch model in card, I already have the dimensions worked out, however because I'll be using a selection of materials extra planning will be needed. The main body of the house will be made from 2mm clear Perspex. this will then be clad with 1mm white Styrene.
Perspex
Available of thicknesses, colours, effects and textures.
Can be hard to cut, depending on thickness, with a scalpel but can also be cut with the band saw or circular saw.
Can be polished, sprayed with cellulose or enamal paints.
Can be bonded with Dichlo, Solvent Free glues, Superglue, Uhu, Contact adhesive and tape.
Can be bonded to card, styrene, perspex, foamex, cork and blue foam.
Same principles for measuring and cutting stryene can be used for perspex.
A scoring blade can be created by filing a hook into the back of a blunted blade.
This can then be dragged across the perspex several times creating a break line. The break is quite sharp with this thickness, but for smaller or thicker piece the Vargas Saw can be used.
The basic shape of the house begins to take shape.
Today I started construction of the house. Having already completed the sketch model in card, I already have the dimensions worked out, however because I'll be using a selection of materials extra planning will be needed. The main body of the house will be made from 2mm clear Perspex. this will then be clad with 1mm white Styrene.
Perspex
Available of thicknesses, colours, effects and textures.
Can be hard to cut, depending on thickness, with a scalpel but can also be cut with the band saw or circular saw.
Can be polished, sprayed with cellulose or enamal paints.
Can be bonded with Dichlo, Solvent Free glues, Superglue, Uhu, Contact adhesive and tape.
Can be bonded to card, styrene, perspex, foamex, cork and blue foam.
Same principles for measuring and cutting stryene can be used for perspex.
A scoring blade can be created by filing a hook into the back of a blunted blade.
This can then be dragged across the perspex several times creating a break line. The break is quite sharp with this thickness, but for smaller or thicker piece the Vargas Saw can be used.
The basic shape of the house begins to take shape.
Monday, 12 October 2009
Monday, 5 October 2009
Week 6 - Tools , Equipment & Model Materials
Contouring the Base
First step was to mark out the positioning of the house and lake on the base, cut out the lake area. This will be covered with Acrylic so that the light can shine up through illuminating the house. A jigsaw was used to cut out the irregular shape of the lake. A jigsaw works similar to a band saw in that the blade moves vertically up and down at a high speed. It is handheld which means that compex curves can be followed. Before cutting a number of holes were drilled in the material so that the blade can be placed in to start the cutting.
Once the lake is cut out I began with the contours. The site map already sows the contours in place. Now each one will be individually cut out and placed on top of each other. For this I used 5mm Cork Sheets. Firstly i cut uniformed pieces that would be suitable size for each contour. The contour map was placed on top and secured with pins. I then carefully followed the contour line with a sharp scalpel. ( IMPORTANT - The off cuts were kept to act as a guide when applying the glue )
Cork Sheeting
Cork is harvested form the Cork Oak and is processed to many different uses, the most obvious is wine bottle stoppers.
Cork sheeting can be aquired in a number of differnt thickness.
It is easily cut with a scalpel or stanley blade.
It can be bonded with Solvent-Free Glues, Superglue, Contact Adhesive, tape, PVA or Uhu.
It can be bonded to Card, MDF styrene, Perspex, Foamex, Cork, and Blue Foam.
Can be painted with acrylic paints.
Contact Adhesive
Contact adhesives must be applied to both surfaces and allowed some time to dry before the two surfaces are pushed together.Once the surfaces are pushed together, the bond forms very quickly. It is usually not necessary to apply pressure for a long time, so there is no need to use .
(IMPORTANT - allow both sides to dry before pushing togeher. If the material is non-pourous like styrene the gases given off during the drying will not be able to escape causing pockets and blisters to form.)
A sheet of Acrylic is used to cover the hole for the lake.
A roller is used to push the two piece togher evenly.
The first layer is cut out and placed.
Contact Adhesive abllied to both sides.
The finished piece with all layers.
First step was to mark out the positioning of the house and lake on the base, cut out the lake area. This will be covered with Acrylic so that the light can shine up through illuminating the house. A jigsaw was used to cut out the irregular shape of the lake. A jigsaw works similar to a band saw in that the blade moves vertically up and down at a high speed. It is handheld which means that compex curves can be followed. Before cutting a number of holes were drilled in the material so that the blade can be placed in to start the cutting.
Once the lake is cut out I began with the contours. The site map already sows the contours in place. Now each one will be individually cut out and placed on top of each other. For this I used 5mm Cork Sheets. Firstly i cut uniformed pieces that would be suitable size for each contour. The contour map was placed on top and secured with pins. I then carefully followed the contour line with a sharp scalpel. ( IMPORTANT - The off cuts were kept to act as a guide when applying the glue )
Cork Sheeting
Cork is harvested form the Cork Oak and is processed to many different uses, the most obvious is wine bottle stoppers.
Cork sheeting can be aquired in a number of differnt thickness.
It is easily cut with a scalpel or stanley blade.
It can be bonded with Solvent-Free Glues, Superglue, Contact Adhesive, tape, PVA or Uhu.
It can be bonded to Card, MDF styrene, Perspex, Foamex, Cork, and Blue Foam.
Can be painted with acrylic paints.
Contact Adhesive
Contact adhesives must be applied to both surfaces and allowed some time to dry before the two surfaces are pushed together.Once the surfaces are pushed together, the bond forms very quickly. It is usually not necessary to apply pressure for a long time, so there is no need to use .
(IMPORTANT - allow both sides to dry before pushing togeher. If the material is non-pourous like styrene the gases given off during the drying will not be able to escape causing pockets and blisters to form.)
A sheet of Acrylic is used to cover the hole for the lake.
A roller is used to push the two piece togher evenly.
The first layer is cut out and placed.
Contact Adhesive abllied to both sides.
The finished piece with all layers.
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