Sander seal
Fixed base
Tuesday, 17 November 2009
Tuesday, 10 November 2009
Monday, 9 November 2009
Tuesday, 3 November 2009
Monday, 2 November 2009
Monday, 26 October 2009
Week 9 - Tools, Equipment & Model Materials
House Components
The smaller components where created out of 1mm perspex. This is alot easier to work with, particularly cutting. Each component was created out of perspex, but in hindsight, it may have been better to use white styrene for the top and bottom. I can still clad the top and bottom with styrene, but it means more thickness.
The split pitch roof proved quite difficult to cut from the 2mm perspex. The first and second attempt left poorly defined angles. It was suggested that instead of trying to scribe and snap the angles, to use the belt sander to sand away the excess, leaving a far cleaner and more accurate cut.
The angles are lightly scribed onto the perspex. Running over the lines with a pencil before cutting will make them more visible, particularly if a sacrifisal piece of foamex is placed beneath whilst sanding.
The smaller components where created out of 1mm perspex. This is alot easier to work with, particularly cutting. Each component was created out of perspex, but in hindsight, it may have been better to use white styrene for the top and bottom. I can still clad the top and bottom with styrene, but it means more thickness.
The split pitch roof proved quite difficult to cut from the 2mm perspex. The first and second attempt left poorly defined angles. It was suggested that instead of trying to scribe and snap the angles, to use the belt sander to sand away the excess, leaving a far cleaner and more accurate cut.
The angles are lightly scribed onto the perspex. Running over the lines with a pencil before cutting will make them more visible, particularly if a sacrifisal piece of foamex is placed beneath whilst sanding.
Monday, 19 October 2009
Week 8 - Tools , Equipment & Model Materials
Perspex and Styrene House
Today I started construction of the house. Having already completed the sketch model in card, I already have the dimensions worked out, however because I'll be using a selection of materials extra planning will be needed. The main body of the house will be made from 2mm clear Perspex. this will then be clad with 1mm white Styrene.
Perspex
Available of thicknesses, colours, effects and textures.
Can be hard to cut, depending on thickness, with a scalpel but can also be cut with the band saw or circular saw.
Can be polished, sprayed with cellulose or enamal paints.
Can be bonded with Dichlo, Solvent Free glues, Superglue, Uhu, Contact adhesive and tape.
Can be bonded to card, styrene, perspex, foamex, cork and blue foam.
Same principles for measuring and cutting stryene can be used for perspex.
A scoring blade can be created by filing a hook into the back of a blunted blade.
This can then be dragged across the perspex several times creating a break line. The break is quite sharp with this thickness, but for smaller or thicker piece the Vargas Saw can be used.
The basic shape of the house begins to take shape.
Today I started construction of the house. Having already completed the sketch model in card, I already have the dimensions worked out, however because I'll be using a selection of materials extra planning will be needed. The main body of the house will be made from 2mm clear Perspex. this will then be clad with 1mm white Styrene.
Perspex
Available of thicknesses, colours, effects and textures.
Can be hard to cut, depending on thickness, with a scalpel but can also be cut with the band saw or circular saw.
Can be polished, sprayed with cellulose or enamal paints.
Can be bonded with Dichlo, Solvent Free glues, Superglue, Uhu, Contact adhesive and tape.
Can be bonded to card, styrene, perspex, foamex, cork and blue foam.
Same principles for measuring and cutting stryene can be used for perspex.
A scoring blade can be created by filing a hook into the back of a blunted blade.
This can then be dragged across the perspex several times creating a break line. The break is quite sharp with this thickness, but for smaller or thicker piece the Vargas Saw can be used.
The basic shape of the house begins to take shape.
Monday, 12 October 2009
Monday, 5 October 2009
Week 6 - Tools , Equipment & Model Materials
Contouring the Base
First step was to mark out the positioning of the house and lake on the base, cut out the lake area. This will be covered with Acrylic so that the light can shine up through illuminating the house. A jigsaw was used to cut out the irregular shape of the lake. A jigsaw works similar to a band saw in that the blade moves vertically up and down at a high speed. It is handheld which means that compex curves can be followed. Before cutting a number of holes were drilled in the material so that the blade can be placed in to start the cutting.
Once the lake is cut out I began with the contours. The site map already sows the contours in place. Now each one will be individually cut out and placed on top of each other. For this I used 5mm Cork Sheets. Firstly i cut uniformed pieces that would be suitable size for each contour. The contour map was placed on top and secured with pins. I then carefully followed the contour line with a sharp scalpel. ( IMPORTANT - The off cuts were kept to act as a guide when applying the glue )
Cork Sheeting
Cork is harvested form the Cork Oak and is processed to many different uses, the most obvious is wine bottle stoppers.
Cork sheeting can be aquired in a number of differnt thickness.
It is easily cut with a scalpel or stanley blade.
It can be bonded with Solvent-Free Glues, Superglue, Contact Adhesive, tape, PVA or Uhu.
It can be bonded to Card, MDF styrene, Perspex, Foamex, Cork, and Blue Foam.
Can be painted with acrylic paints.
Contact Adhesive
Contact adhesives must be applied to both surfaces and allowed some time to dry before the two surfaces are pushed together.Once the surfaces are pushed together, the bond forms very quickly. It is usually not necessary to apply pressure for a long time, so there is no need to use .
(IMPORTANT - allow both sides to dry before pushing togeher. If the material is non-pourous like styrene the gases given off during the drying will not be able to escape causing pockets and blisters to form.)
A sheet of Acrylic is used to cover the hole for the lake.
A roller is used to push the two piece togher evenly.
The first layer is cut out and placed.
Contact Adhesive abllied to both sides.
The finished piece with all layers.
First step was to mark out the positioning of the house and lake on the base, cut out the lake area. This will be covered with Acrylic so that the light can shine up through illuminating the house. A jigsaw was used to cut out the irregular shape of the lake. A jigsaw works similar to a band saw in that the blade moves vertically up and down at a high speed. It is handheld which means that compex curves can be followed. Before cutting a number of holes were drilled in the material so that the blade can be placed in to start the cutting.
Once the lake is cut out I began with the contours. The site map already sows the contours in place. Now each one will be individually cut out and placed on top of each other. For this I used 5mm Cork Sheets. Firstly i cut uniformed pieces that would be suitable size for each contour. The contour map was placed on top and secured with pins. I then carefully followed the contour line with a sharp scalpel. ( IMPORTANT - The off cuts were kept to act as a guide when applying the glue )
Cork Sheeting
Cork is harvested form the Cork Oak and is processed to many different uses, the most obvious is wine bottle stoppers.
Cork sheeting can be aquired in a number of differnt thickness.
It is easily cut with a scalpel or stanley blade.
It can be bonded with Solvent-Free Glues, Superglue, Contact Adhesive, tape, PVA or Uhu.
It can be bonded to Card, MDF styrene, Perspex, Foamex, Cork, and Blue Foam.
Can be painted with acrylic paints.
Contact Adhesive
Contact adhesives must be applied to both surfaces and allowed some time to dry before the two surfaces are pushed together.Once the surfaces are pushed together, the bond forms very quickly. It is usually not necessary to apply pressure for a long time, so there is no need to use .
(IMPORTANT - allow both sides to dry before pushing togeher. If the material is non-pourous like styrene the gases given off during the drying will not be able to escape causing pockets and blisters to form.)
A sheet of Acrylic is used to cover the hole for the lake.
A roller is used to push the two piece togher evenly.
The first layer is cut out and placed.
Contact Adhesive abllied to both sides.
The finished piece with all layers.
Tuesday, 29 September 2009
Week 5 - Construction Techniques
MDF Base
The base will support the cork contouring which the house will sit into. The base was very quickly constructed using 12mm MDF. Firstly, a rectangular piece 290mm x 210mm was cut using the Circular Saw, then strips 70mm wide.
The strips act as the wall of the base and have mitre joints. To minimise the amount of measuring, both ends of the strips are mitres at 45 degrees using the Bench Sander,( the strips were long enough to cut one long and one short piece ) then the pieces were placed on the base for a exact lenght. The excess is cut off using the Band Saw and the pieces were mitred.
The pieces were fixed to the base using a combination of PVA and wood screws. PVA was applied to both pieces, then they were rubbed together to ensure an even spread of the glue, once in correct position, clamps were used to hold the pieces while the PVA drys.
Once the PVA was dry, guides hole were carefully drilled through the base into the walls using a Power Drill. The drill bit used was slightly narrower than the screws so they can bit into the MDF. We needed a flat finish, so in order to hide the screw heads, a Counter Sink was used to bore holes for the heads.
Material - MDF, Medium-Density Fibreboard.
MDF is an engineered wood product formed by breaking down hardwood and soft wood residuals into fibres, combing it with wax and a resin binder, and forming it into panels by applying high temperature and pressure.
It can be purchased in a veat variety of different thicknesses and dimensions.
It can be cut using a hand saw, or a band or circular saw.
It can be bonded using PVA, Solvent free glues, Superglue, Contact Adhesive, double sided tape and Uhu.
It can be bonded to itself, card, styrene, perspex, foamex, cork and blue foam.
It can be painted with cellulose or enamal paint, but only after sanding sealer has been applied to treat the surface so as the paint is not absorbed by the MDF.
It can be purcahsed from any DIY store, price is dependant on thickness, dimensions and quaility.
Tools
Circular Saw
The Circular saw is used for cutting all different types of materials in straight lines. This is achieved by running the material along the table where it meets the circular blade. Guides can be used to give extremely accurate cuts. All the pieces that were required for the base were cut using this tool prior to assebly.
Bench Sander
Another handy tool, the bench sander. This can sand materials using a round spinning disc of sand paper. Naturally different coarseness of discs are available for differnt jobs. Similar to the circular saw, the sander has a fences that can be used to achieve angles. This is how I achieved the 45 degree angles on the walls of the base.
Power Drill
Another handly tool in the workshop. This cordless power drill can be used for all manner of drilling and screwing. It has a Key-less chuck which means the drill bit can be quickly placed and changed by hand. This drill has controllable speed which is useful for screwing. It also has a hammer function to be used with a masonary bit for drilling concrete and stone.
The base will support the cork contouring which the house will sit into. The base was very quickly constructed using 12mm MDF. Firstly, a rectangular piece 290mm x 210mm was cut using the Circular Saw, then strips 70mm wide.
The strips act as the wall of the base and have mitre joints. To minimise the amount of measuring, both ends of the strips are mitres at 45 degrees using the Bench Sander,( the strips were long enough to cut one long and one short piece ) then the pieces were placed on the base for a exact lenght. The excess is cut off using the Band Saw and the pieces were mitred.
The pieces were fixed to the base using a combination of PVA and wood screws. PVA was applied to both pieces, then they were rubbed together to ensure an even spread of the glue, once in correct position, clamps were used to hold the pieces while the PVA drys.
Once the PVA was dry, guides hole were carefully drilled through the base into the walls using a Power Drill. The drill bit used was slightly narrower than the screws so they can bit into the MDF. We needed a flat finish, so in order to hide the screw heads, a Counter Sink was used to bore holes for the heads.
Material - MDF, Medium-Density Fibreboard.
MDF is an engineered wood product formed by breaking down hardwood and soft wood residuals into fibres, combing it with wax and a resin binder, and forming it into panels by applying high temperature and pressure.
It can be purchased in a veat variety of different thicknesses and dimensions.
It can be cut using a hand saw, or a band or circular saw.
It can be bonded using PVA, Solvent free glues, Superglue, Contact Adhesive, double sided tape and Uhu.
It can be bonded to itself, card, styrene, perspex, foamex, cork and blue foam.
It can be painted with cellulose or enamal paint, but only after sanding sealer has been applied to treat the surface so as the paint is not absorbed by the MDF.
It can be purcahsed from any DIY store, price is dependant on thickness, dimensions and quaility.
Tools
Circular Saw
The Circular saw is used for cutting all different types of materials in straight lines. This is achieved by running the material along the table where it meets the circular blade. Guides can be used to give extremely accurate cuts. All the pieces that were required for the base were cut using this tool prior to assebly.
Bench Sander
Another handy tool, the bench sander. This can sand materials using a round spinning disc of sand paper. Naturally different coarseness of discs are available for differnt jobs. Similar to the circular saw, the sander has a fences that can be used to achieve angles. This is how I achieved the 45 degree angles on the walls of the base.
Power Drill
Another handly tool in the workshop. This cordless power drill can be used for all manner of drilling and screwing. It has a Key-less chuck which means the drill bit can be quickly placed and changed by hand. This drill has controllable speed which is useful for screwing. It also has a hammer function to be used with a masonary bit for drilling concrete and stone.
Wednesday, 23 September 2009
Tuesday, 22 September 2009
Construction Techniques
Today was spent finishing the card mock up of the house. All the components were carefully placed and the roof was placed ontop, holding it all together.
The mitred edges left and extremely clean finish in comparison to a butt joint which would have left white edges where the card had been cut
On the landing, i glued a thin strip of the coloured coating of the car so as to hide the white edge.
The mitred edges left and extremely clean finish in comparison to a butt joint which would have left white edges where the card had been cut
On the landing, i glued a thin strip of the coloured coating of the car so as to hide the white edge.
Monday, 21 September 2009
Week 4 - Tools , Equipment & Model Materials
2nd Assignment - House with countoured landscape with base.
Card Model.
The Second assignment is made up of 3 parts, the first is a MDF base, second, a contoured landscape and the third, a styrene clad house. To start off we were asked to make a mock up of the house using cardboard.
The first task was to work out all the dimensions from the drawings. Again with this material, the thickness of the material most be taken into consideration when planning the job. For this we are using a 2mm card. The house is made up of 4 main components, each one will be made individually then joined together and finished with the roof.
The first task is to cut out the 4 walls of the house. Particular attention was paid when cutting out the windows and doors so as there were no cut marks on the external faces. I decided to mitre the edges before gluing, this way I didn't need to worry about making adjustments to the dimensions before cutting. The roof has spilt in the pitch, so again careful planning is needed before cutting.
The circles were cut out using a circle cutter. Once all the components are finished they can be attached to the main house piece. The roof will need to be carefully measured so as to fit correctly over the components.
Card.
Card come in a vast variety of colours, effects, textures, thicknesses and dimensions. It is exterely easy to cut with a scapel, stanley blade or even scissors.
It is often used for mock ups as it is easy to work with, it can be used to create complex curves and shapes as well as straight walls.
It can be bonded with a vast selection of solvent free adhesives, Uhu, superglue, contact adhesive, double sided tape. For this exercise we are using PVA glue.
Standerd A2 sized sheets can be purchased from most art stores and internet suppliers, prices vary between £2 - £5.
PVA - Poly-Vinyl Acetate.
PVA is specifically used to bond wood or wood based materials like hard or soft woods, paper card, and cork.
It can also be used as a protective barrier as it dries clear and leaves a gloss finish.
When water is added it become a high viscosity liquid which can be used for Paper Mache.
PVA creates a very strong and permanent bond with wood.
It is air-drying, applying heat with a hair dryer can reduce drying time, but this technique should not be used when bonding wood.
Sand and paint can be added to PVA to create textures and colours.
It is readily available from all art stores and hardware store and is quite inexpensive.
Card Model.
The Second assignment is made up of 3 parts, the first is a MDF base, second, a contoured landscape and the third, a styrene clad house. To start off we were asked to make a mock up of the house using cardboard.
The first task was to work out all the dimensions from the drawings. Again with this material, the thickness of the material most be taken into consideration when planning the job. For this we are using a 2mm card. The house is made up of 4 main components, each one will be made individually then joined together and finished with the roof.
The first task is to cut out the 4 walls of the house. Particular attention was paid when cutting out the windows and doors so as there were no cut marks on the external faces. I decided to mitre the edges before gluing, this way I didn't need to worry about making adjustments to the dimensions before cutting. The roof has spilt in the pitch, so again careful planning is needed before cutting.
The circles were cut out using a circle cutter. Once all the components are finished they can be attached to the main house piece. The roof will need to be carefully measured so as to fit correctly over the components.
Card.
Card come in a vast variety of colours, effects, textures, thicknesses and dimensions. It is exterely easy to cut with a scapel, stanley blade or even scissors.
It is often used for mock ups as it is easy to work with, it can be used to create complex curves and shapes as well as straight walls.
It can be bonded with a vast selection of solvent free adhesives, Uhu, superglue, contact adhesive, double sided tape. For this exercise we are using PVA glue.
Standerd A2 sized sheets can be purchased from most art stores and internet suppliers, prices vary between £2 - £5.
PVA - Poly-Vinyl Acetate.
PVA is specifically used to bond wood or wood based materials like hard or soft woods, paper card, and cork.
It can also be used as a protective barrier as it dries clear and leaves a gloss finish.
When water is added it become a high viscosity liquid which can be used for Paper Mache.
PVA creates a very strong and permanent bond with wood.
It is air-drying, applying heat with a hair dryer can reduce drying time, but this technique should not be used when bonding wood.
Sand and paint can be added to PVA to create textures and colours.
It is readily available from all art stores and hardware store and is quite inexpensive.
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